Intro to Shibori and Indigo Materials List:

SKILLS/TECHNIQUES COVERED: Students will initially learn how an indigo vat is made. A vat will be prepared in the morning and the basic chemistry explained. The natural indigo powder will be used, and the vat will be ‘reduced’ using a commercially available chemical. While the vat develops, students will be shown several shibori techniques: a folded and clamped method, and a twisted and tied technique. Students will create all samples using Japanese tenugi fabrics

LEVEL: Beginner and intermediate

PLEASE BRING WITH YOU:

  1. a pair of new rubber gloves (dishwashing long)

  2. a seam-picker or a small pair of sharp scissors

  3. an old shirt or apron – and please wear old clothes

  4. closed-toe shoes

  5. package of rubber bands- assorted sizes

  6. sewing needles with a larger-sized eye

  7. sample sized fabrics in various types, (silk, cotton, linen, rayon) no larger than 36" x 14"

  8. PRE-SCOUR ALL Fabrics before bringing them to class (wash in Hot water with mild soap- boil for 20-30 minutes

  9. Each person can dye approximately 6 items

  10. A happy attitude!

MATERIALS FEE: $30pp

Materials provided include- 2 pc Japanese Tenugi fabric 36 X 14, all materials to make indigo vat, vinegar for final soak, thread, string,


Proper scouring is essential to good dyeing. Improperly scoured items do not dye evenly, the dye does not penetrate well, and the dyed item may not be fast.
Most fibres come from nature with coatings of some type. If these are not removed the dye will attach to the coating rather than to the fibre. This may not be immediately evident but over time the adjunct will separate from the fibre taking the colour with it. It is a common error to doubt the fastness or the quality of the dye when the real culprit is a freeloader who stole the dyestuff. It is best to remove all foreign matter at the beginning and start with clean fibres.
Note: Fabrics sold as “ready for dyeing” may not need scouring.

Supplies needed for Home Scouring: 

Soda ash and Neutral Soap (Synthrapol) for cotton.
Orvus paste soap (for silk and wool)

Scouring cotton and other cellulose fibres:

1  Use a large vessel and fill with enough water so that the yarn or fabric may be well covered and not crowded.

2 Add 1 tsp Synthrapol (5 ml) and 4 tsps. soda ash (20 g) for each half-pound (250 g) of cotton.

3 Simmer for approximately 1 hour. Cotton is full of wax, pectic substances, and oil, all of which must be removed. The resulting wash water will be yellow brown. Bleached white cotton yarns and fabrics may not need as long.

Scouring silk and wool: Most silks can be hand-washed and line dried ( these directions are more suited for fleece)

1  Use a large vessel and fill with enough water so that the yarn or fabric may be well covered and not crowded.

2 Add 1 tsp (5 ml) orvus paste soap for each pound (500 g) of dry fibre/fabric.

3 Add yarn, fleece or piece goods and heat gently (60º C, 140º F) for approximately 1 hour. Turn gently but do not agitate

4 Allow fibre to cool down slowly and then rinse in warm water. Remember overheating or sudden temperature changes will cause wool to felt.

Notes:

 

  • Some fleece sold as scoured has also been oiled to facilitate spinning - it will need to be scoured again.

  • Fleece and wools need to be scoured to remove natural oils (lanolin) and dirt.

  • Silks require scouring to remove sericin - the coating of the fibre that held it into a cocoon.

  • Cotton and other plant fibres require scouring to remove waxes and pectins.

  • In all cases, anything that comes between the dye and the fibre will create an unwanted resistance.